Tag: projects
Crepe finished! It’s a dress!
Sewing the hem.
Pressing the facings, joining bodice and skirt
Here you can see how I used an improper marking pen on a previous project and stained my tailor’s ham. Here you can also see that the tailor’s ham comes in handy (or ham-dy?) for pressing this dress.
Here you can see the facings flipping out on the arm holes, completely ruining the effect of the cool sleeves. I’ll show them what’s what, just you wait.
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At this point, aside from facing wrangling, I just need to get Julie to mark the hem and then sew the hem and then I’m done. Ahead of schedule, even.
At this point, aside from facing wrangling, I just need to get Julie to mark the hem and then sew the hem and then I’m done. Ahead of schedule, even.
Tacking down the facings.
The bodice has facings along the neckline and the arms. I am making tiny stitches in the facings and sewing the seam to the facings, to encourage the facing to roll the right way. Sentinel is helping and watching a movie with me.
Even after I did this, the arm facings would not behave, constantly turning out. I ended up doing what Gertie did and carefully sewing the facings to the underlining. That worked well, because of the two layers of fabric, but I’m not sure what I would have done if I had only one layer of fabric. I’ve made a not on my pattern to underline, should I want to make this dress again.
Sewing the pockets and skirt
One of the best things about Collette patterns is that she usually includes pockets in her skirts. Here are mine. I’ve always thought pockets laid out like that look rather dirty. Thank goodness they will be tucked away where no one can see. It occurs to me that right now we’ve got a sort of external genitalia thing going on, but as soon as I sew this up, we will revert to an internal genitalia thing. But maybe that’s just me.
Stay stiching the neckline, joining the shoulders
Now that all that basting is done (three movies worth, geez-almighty) I can move on to the next step: stay stitching the neckline. we do this to ensure it doesn’t stretch out with repeated wear. I’m in.
Here, I have traced my sewing line in disappearing marker so I know where to sew.
I’m choosing the organza strips and I get to not only pin, but also to baste the organza. That Gertie lady is crazy for basting.
Drafting new facings, cutting and basting
Here was the original plan for the facings, but I’ve got to make new ones due to arm area expansion.
Bodice stuff that needed to be cut on the fold.
Have you seen the movie Unzipped, about Isaac Mizrahi’s fall 1994 collection? It’s a great documentary. And one thing I learned is that all the women making the fashion wear black all the time. So I’m wearing all black in homage. Also because it’s rather cold today.
I really despise cutting out. It might be better if I didn’t have to crawl all over the floor all the time.
Then Gertie told me to carefully baste around each piece and then finish cutting out. I suspect this is one of those things Gertie does because she likes to be careful. I’m doing it, but it’s taking forever.
Final muslin fitting, prepping material
Muslin #2. I can see that lengthening the front now has me in trouble with the back. The side seams are even. I sense a muslin #3 in the future.
The front is reaching my waist. And notice how taking all that fabric out at the armpit level helped tremendously.
But I’ve still got a shoulder thing going on. I solved this by having Matt cut back until there was a bigger opening.
Here is the pattern for #1 topped with the pattern for muslin #2 in front, with the changes outlined for #3 in green. I’ve known it since I tried on Sara’s strapless formal dress in tenth grade, but man, do I have shoulders.
Tracing pattern pieces
I’m feeling confused about how to make the changes from the muslin to the pattern, so I’ll distract myself with tracing all the pattern pieces.